sidst opdateret: 3/19/21 | 19. marts 2021
Denne måned taler min ven Alex Berger om Nord -Skotland samt deler historien om Smoo Cave. Det er smukt skrevet.
Beliggende på toppen af de brugte kalkstenklipper ved mundingen af Geodha Smoo -indløbet, rensede jeg tilfældigt tåen på min vandrestøvle over de bløde, dæmpede lilla lyngblomster. Jeg havde dukket op i den søvnige skotske by Durness et par minutter tidligere såvel som den 10 minutters gåtur langs kanten af indløbet og havde til hensigt at fange en af Skotlands mystiske solnedgange. Støjen fra nedbrudte bølger, der førte deres evige krig mod kysten, gentog sig i mine ører, da jeg lod den rene duft af lyng, saltspray samt tang fylder mine lunger.
Min ankomst til Duress markerede kulminationen på en lang dags kørsel op ad den nordvestlige kystlinje i Skotland. Den søvnige bit landsby på 400 står ved siden af en af Skotlands en masse specielle naturlige vidundere. SMOO Cave ligger i slutningen af Geodha Smoo, et mellemlangt indløb, der er udskåret af havet, vinden såvel som en lille strøm, og ligner en drages åbne maw udskåret i siden af det omgivende stenklippeflade.
Hvert år går over 40.000 mennesker til Smoo Cave. Indvendigt har arkæologer fundet neolitisk, norrøne såvel som jernalderens artefakter-hvoraf nogle få tilbage til den mesolitiske tidsalder (10.000-8.000 fvt). Legenden siger, at hulen er en port til faerie -verdenen såvel som er beskyttet af spiritus. På en meget mere funktionel note blev hulen brugt regelmæssigt af smuglere i betragtning af, at det er et naturligt skjulested.
Hvad der gør hulen speciel i Storbritannien er dens geografiske egenskaber. Det spredte ydre kammer er blevet udskåret i alderen ved havet, mens en række indvendige huler såvel som tunneler er blevet ætset af de to ferskvandstrømme, der trækker deres metode med hulen. Den allerførste af disse to vandløb bobler op med en nedsænket pool beliggende ved terminalen af den dybeste tilgængelige del af hulen.
Den anden kommer fra vandet i Allt Smoo, en strøm (eller rasende torrent, afhængigt af regnen), der snor sig over det skotske landskab, før han uventet styrter 80 meter med et hul i stenloftet såvel som ned i Smoo Caves anden- Største huler.
Der går farvandet sammen med dem, der har vandret deres metode ud fra undergrunden for at forbinde i en dyb pool. Kun delvist oplyst af små væglamper såvel som den svage lys, der strømmer ind med hullet i taget, er det mørke farvande hovedsageligt stadig undtagen for den periodiske hvirvel af en fiskes finn, den blide tåge af vandfaldet samt det bløde Ripple af en oppustelig flåde, når den færger besøgende dybere ned i hjertet af hulen.
På min forrige gå til at smo regnen havde gjort den lille allt smoo til en rasende flod, hvilket gjorde det umuligt at tilbringe meget mere end den korteste øjeblikke på træplatformen steg ved enden af den lille tunnel, der forbinder hulens grand Mund såvel som de oversvømmede dybder i det andet kammer. Denne gang, da jeg langsomt gik under det mosedækkede loft i Grand Chamber, håbede jeg virkelig, at jeg ville have muligheden for at tjekke hulens dybder.
Portalen
Med mange af de turister, der var gået til aftensmad, opdagede jeg mig selv, der stod alene i midten af det primære kammer. Med et ovenlysvindue i loftet udskåret af allt smoo, før det opdagede en meget lettere sti ind i kammeret, overheadhulen overhead med meget mere end 40 fod af clearance. Bagsiden af hulen er dækket af miljøvenlig mos såvel som små planter, mens en helt oplyst, anden verdensomspændende spalte lyser, som om en smaragdport til endnu en verden er åbnet.
For dem, der er bekendt med eposet af Beowulf, er det simpelt at forestille sig de tidlige norrøne opdagelsesrejsende, som arkæologer siger, når de lavede lejr i hulen, krøllet rundt om et lejrbål, der fortæller historier om havhekser såvel som huletrold. For andre, der måske har drømt om lignende havhuler, er det enkelt for sindet at strejfe med fantasiflyvninger såvel som drømme direkte fra Arthurian Legend. It seems likely, provided that the archaeological record for the cave shows indications of habitation stretching back a lot more than 4,000 years to the Neolithic Era, that the cave was inspiring travelers even while the pharaohs increased the fantastic pyramids in ancient Egypt.
Jeg nød øjeblikket såvel som pauset inde i det andet kammer for et antal fotografier, før jeg vendte tilbage til vandrerhjemmet. If the weather condition cooperated, the complying with morning guaranteed experience as well as the chance to delve into Smoo’s deepest depths.
Exploring the Cave
To my pleasure morning shown up with only the lightest of Scottish showers. I swiftly made my method down to the grand entrance in the primary cavern, paid a couple of pounds for the tour, as well as was fitted for a hardhat. I joined the others, as well as we were instructed to head intothe second chamber where an inflatable river raft was set up just underneath the wooden checking out platform. After a short wait, our guide shown up as well as ushered us very carefully down a vertical ladder as well as into the boat. He was a crusty old Scotsman who undoubtedly had a deep connection with the cave as well as had been providing excursions for years. After obeying a few barked orders, we ducked our heads as well as pressed ourselves against the bottom of the raft as he pulled us out from underneath the low-hanging dock as well as along the edge of the second cavern.
Soon, we discovered ourselves by the outer edges of the falls as he explained exactly how the waterfall concerned be as well as the history of the cave. After a short pause, he tossed a few pieces of crumbled bread over the edge of the boat. As soon as it hit the water, our eyes widened as a little army of undetectable fish tore the bread asunder as well as then returned to the depths of the black waters.
With a gritty chuckle, a push, as well as a command to mind our heads, our guide utilized two ropes to pull us across the chamber as well as underneath a low-hanging arch with just sufficient clearance for the boat. A helmet scraped carefully on the rocks overhead as we guided the boat underneath the arch as well as into a little chamber. There, our guide hopped out as well as led us very carefully onto wooden boards haphazardly sitting in the midst of a little stream.
Deep in Smoo Cave
The tunnel that stretched out before us was approximately the height of a tall man. The walls looked every bit like a fossilized seabed, reflecting their ancient past.
Careful to mind our footing, we complied with our guide along the increased boards deeper into the cave. The journey wasn’t long however served to add to the feeling of otherworldliness. Each step took us additionally along what felt like a blend of an underground river as well as the type of ancient mine our ancestors may have carved out 100 generations ago.
The tunnel dead-ends abruptly. The walls of the cave style somewhat as well as then converge, covered on one side by a thick layer of large stalactites that protrude partially from the wall. underneath them, the stream threads its method across fallen rocks which in turn provide method to fine sand as well as a little pool that slips underneath the stalactite-covered wall.
With the light twang of frustration in his voice, our guide explained that attempts to additionally check out the tunnel with the utilize of dive devices had come up empty-handed. Indications suggested that the chamber likely continued on additionally into the cliffs, however silt as well as obstacles in the submerged part of the tunnel made it impossible to explore. It was remove he had the heart of an explorer as well as itched for the day when some shift or modification made it possible to discover as well as delve those depths.
He broke our thoughtful reverie as well as voiced his theory that at one point, the cave system likely opened into extra chambers additionally in the cliffside. As evidence, he gestured at little bits of sodden charcoal that had gathered, caught in the sand at the pool’s lip. bits of charcoal, like those we were seeing, had been checked as well as were approximately 4,000 years old. even a lot more interesting, they showed indications that they likely stemmed from man-made cooking fires.
His enthusiasm to fix the concern of where the charcoal was coming from as well as who had left it deep within the cave captured our imaginations as we slowly made our method back to the boat. Each of us dragged our feet slightly, excited to draw out the experience. But, then, as swiftly as it had all begun, we discovered ourselves back in the boat, our faces pressed against the thick rubber of the raft’s sides as we squeezed underneath the little arch as well as re-emerged into the cavern with the waterfall.
Smoo Cave isn’t the most grandiose cave you’ll ever explore. It’s likewise not the most beautiful. Yet, there’s something special about it that teases the imagination. For my part, I look ahead to the chance to return as well as harbor the hope that someday we’ll fix the cave’s secret as well as discover a lot more about what lies behind its flooded passageway.
Hvordan man kommer dertil
Durness is finest reached by vehicle or motorcycle. However, it can be reached by bus or a bus/train combination by method of Lairg. In addition to Smoo Cave, Durness is likewise a prominent base for checking out Cape Wrath. There are a number of hostels as well as many hotels as well as B&Bs in the area; the most practical for checking out Smoo Cave is the Durness youth Hostel. Smoo Cave is complimentary to go to however the boat excursion costs approximately 5 GBP as well as generally lasts 20-30 minutes. The cave is available all year.
Alex Berger is the author of VirtualWayfarer.com as well as an American currently living in Copenhagen, Denmark. ENN ivrig rejsende, hans lidenskaber inkluderer rejsefotografering såvel som akademisk forskningsundersøgelse af den udviklende funktionsinnovation spiller i udformningen af backpacker -kulturen.
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